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Toys are an excellent way to prevent boredom in rabbits. Enrichment helps a rabbit use their brain as well as have something fun to do. Both are great to help rabbits express normal behaviours such as digging, chewing and foraging. It can be fun to experiment and see which toys your rabbits prefer and occasionally swapping toys around can keep things interesting for them. We have many toys and enrichment ideas here but here are some you can try making yourself at home: Cardboard toilet roll tubes - these can be filled with hay and healthy treats or forage for your rabbit to enjoy and try and get to. These will keep our rabbits entertained for hours! Tunnels - these can be created using cardboard boxes or can be purchased from our store. Cardboard boxes - these can have holes cut into them to provide hiding places. They can also be filled with hay or scrunched up paper with delicious dried forage to encourage natural behaviours. Paper bags - these are great with small holes cut into them and filled with hay and forage. Do not use paper bags with handles, as these could cause injury. Untreated, pesticide free rabbit safe wood (apple, pear, hazel, willow) - wood can be tied up with seagrass, or given as sticks to nibble and chew Objects to play and throw - have you ever seen your rabbit throwing their toys? This is them playing! Try using stacking cups and add healthy treats or forage into them and watch your rabbit throw them around one by one. Feeding balls are also great to encourage them to work for their food. Digging boxes are a great way for rabbits to express another of their natural instincts, to dig! In the wild, rabbits will be digging burrows to create a warren system and still have this urge as domesticated as they have become. Instead of have them digging your carpet, why not purchase or make a digging box? Use cardboard boxes, large plant pots, raised garden beds, children's sandpits or litter trays. These can be filled with safe non toxic substances such as paper or organic top soil. Sand is not recommended for use with rabbits as the small particles are gritty and can get into eyes and respiratory systems. Rabbits love to jump and get high up - they sometimes don't have any fear when it comes to their safety! This can help them be more aware of their surroundings and help them feel safe. Jumping on and off platforms and hides is also great exercise for them, just ensure nothing is placed too high to avoid injury. Although knowing how to prevent boredom in rabbits is advantageous, it is necessary to spot the signs of a bored rabbit. Here are some signs which could indicate a rabbit is bored and needs more enrichment: Destructive behaviour - chewing carpets, furniture, wires and other things they shouldn't. Aggression Lethargy / laying down a lot Not eating or eating too much Overgrooming These behaviours can be avoided easily by providing plenty of mental stimulation for your rabbit. They are naturally clever and curious animals and therefore need to be kept occupied. Preventing boredom can be a great way to bond with your rabbit and seeing them play, which is great to watch! As long as a rabbit has plenty of things to do, the risk of displaying bored behaviours is significantly reduced.

Rabbits can live happily indoors or outdoors if they are given enough space. The RWAF recommends a minimum space of 3m x 2m x 1m for a bonded pair of rabbits. It is important to remember that these guidelines are a minimum and the more space that can be provided, the better. Rabbits need a lot of space to be able to display their natural behaviours, such as running, jumping, binkying, digging, periscoping, playing and stretching out. These behaviours are necessary for a rabbits happiness and general wellbeing. Hutches were originally used many, many years ago with the sole purpose of breeding rabbits for meat as food was scarce and rabbits breed very quickly. There wasn’t enough room for them to move around, so it was easier to get them fattened up. Many years later, there are supermarkets and shops everywhere. Food is easily accessible and can be obtained whenever we like. We’re in 2024, so why are people stuck so far in the past? Times have changed, and we need to as well. A rabbit hutch or cage should not be thought of as adequate rabbit housing. They can be used as a base / hide out as part of a larger set up. If we want to keep rabbits as pets, love them and give them the best lives possible (why else would we get them as pets?) then we need to ensure their needs are met. Resting and exercise areas should be kept separate from each other but together so the rabbits can access both areas freely. A run or exercise area should be permanently attached to the resting area. The following should be considered when choosing suitable housing for your rabbits: Larger breed rabbits will need larger areas / houses A baby rabbit will need suitable accommodation that will be adequate when fully grown It needs to be a size that allows sufficient room for laying and stretching at full length It needs to allow room for the rabbit to stand fully upright on its hind legs without its ears touching the top It needs to be large enough to consist of a sheltered, private area when a rabbit can retreat if frightened It needs to allow sufficient room for food, water, toys and enrichment Choosing where to put a rabbits house and exercise area is important. Rabbits are prey animals, therefore they are naturally nervous and always on the look out for danger. Their living environment needs to be calm and quiet and should not be in an area with a lot of activity and noise, for example children's play areas or a place where social events occur. It is impossible to keep any area quiet 100% of the time, so it is inevitable that the rabbit will hear loud noises from time to time, but doing everything possible to ensure your rabbit is not exposed to this on a regular basis will keep stress levels low. On the other hand it is important to choose an area that can easily be seen to encourage social interaction and monitoring of your rabbit. It should also be accessible to make feeding and cleaning easy. Indoors If you choose to have your rabbit free roaming your entire house or just a room, then bunny proofing needs to be done! Bunny proofing your home is a big task, and although you may think you have bunny proofed, a rabbit will still find something to mischievously get at. Think of it like having a toddler. Anything that could pose a risk to them, remove or adapt. All cables should be hidden (rabbits love a bit of the spicy hay!) and anything that could pose a risk to them, hide it away. Alternatively you can set up a large pen (often called x pens) to keep your rabbits out of mischief (although I would highly recommend free roaming rabbits! It is a delight to see them having fun and for them to be part of the family). Pens should be spacious for your rabbits to run around, have a litter area, sleeping / hide away area, toys and enrichment. They should also be tall. Rabbits can jump very high and will escape given the chance so a high wooden pen or a pen with small gaps between the bars is recommended. Larger gaps could cause rabbits to try escaping and they could injure themselves or get stuck. Any pen type housing should not be placed near a fire or radiator and out of direct sunlight so your rabbits do not get too hot. Outdoors A rabbit enclosure should be located in a well ventilated, dry area and out of direct sunlight, where they are kept safe from predators and extreme weather. During colder months, although rabbits tend to cope well in colder weather, it is important to give them plenty of straw to provide them with insulation and it is important to check this stays dry throughout the day. I have attached some photos below of our outside set up to give an idea of what is required. Our set up is 12ft x 6ft, has an inside and an outside exercise area. We are planning to add a 4ft x 8ft run with tunnels attached to provide a grassy area and more enrichment and space. Any attached runs should be meshed with at least 16g wire (14g and 12g are even better) with 13mm holes being the largest to go for. This ensures nothing can get in to harm your rabbits (foxes, stoats, rats, birds of prey), and your rabbits cannot get out. If you are putting your run on grass, rabbits can easily dig out, so a mesh base under some turf is a great way to set this up. All sides should be secure with no gaps and the build needs to be solid and the inside area, waterproof. A rabbit can die of heat exhaustion much more quickly than being out in the cold, so it is so important they have shade and ventilation in their inside area. Fans (use battery powered or re-chargable fans, so wires aren't an issue), cool pods, stone slabs etc will also help your rabbits keep cool in the warmer weather. Their litter trays should be cleaned daily to discourage flies and you should check on them regularly in hot weather. Lastly, your rabbits accommodation needs to be durable so your rabbit remains comfortable and dry, regardless of the weather. It needs to be robust to cope with strong winds, rain and frost, as well as any damage the rabbit may cause itself through digging or chewing. Further housing requirements Wherever you choose to house your rabbits, plenty of hay must be available at all times, as well as clean water. It is a good idea to purchase a hay rack so the hay stays clean. We have multiple hay racks and litter trays in one as rabbits love to go to the toilet while munching on hay. Keep any bedding hay or straw separate from eating hay, the hay racks are great to be able to do this. Heavy bowls of water should be placed inside and outside for your rabbits to access easily. For outdoors rabbits, in freezing temperatures it is important to check the water has not frozen over. Rabbits can easily be litter trained. They usually decide on the best spot they like to go, so once established, try adding their litter tray to this spot. Their toilet should be separate from their sleeping area and cleaned every day. As rabbits are prey animals, they must have a separate hiding area with at least two entrances / exits, where they can retreat if they feel frightened or scared. They must be able to access their hiding area at all times and it should not be removed unless required if there is a concern for the rabbits health. It should be private and secure so that predators cannot see inside or get to them. Rabbits are highly sensitive and it is possible for a rabbit to die of fright if confronted or threatened by a predator. Rabbits should also never be deliberately trapped inside as this prohibits their natural behaviour of fleeing. Rabbits are intelligent animals and need toys and enrichment for physical and mental stimulation. These are needed in addition to daily exercise. Not only do toys make great entertainment for a rabbit but they allow normal behaviours to be displayed such as chewing, digging and exploring. A bored rabbit is an unhappy rabbit and and this can lead to the development of abnormal behaviours such as overgrooming and serious health issues. Toys are a great way to prevent boredom and there are many available for a rabbit to enjoy. Check out our toys section here. There are also great toys you can make yourself at home, such as cardboard tubes and boxes. All toys should be checked regularly for signs of damage and any damaged toys should be removed to prevent injury. It is essential to keep a rabbits enclosure clean. Litter trays should be cleaned daily and the rest should be cleaned once a week , depending on how quickly it becomes dirty. Rabbits are social animals and require the company of another rabbit to stay happy and healthy. Rabbits will groom each other, play together and look out foreach other when there is danger. As a guide, a neutered female and a neutered male are thought to be the best pairing, however it is all down to the individual rabbits personality. New rabbits must be introduced slowly and carefully. Adopting a bonded pair from a rescue is often a great idea as it saves on the stress of bonding two rabbits together. Visit out UK rescues page to find a rescue near you.

It is essential a rabbit is given a varied, well balanced and high fibre diet in order to support its digestive health and wellbeing. Rabbits have a complex digestive system, which means they are more likely to suffer from stomach upsets and gastrointestinal stasis (GI stasis). This means what you feed your rabbit is one of the most important parts of your care. Rabbits are herbivores so only eat plant material. They do not require meat in their diet and this should never be offered to them. In the wild rabbits graze on different grasses and plants, but domestic rabbits rely on their paw-rents to provide them with the various foods they need. Their diet should consist of at least 85% hay, 10% leafy greens/herbs/veggies and 5% pellets or nuggets. Hay and grasses - 85% of their diet Fibre is the most important part of a rabbits diet and hay should be given in an unlimited supply. Fibre is so important for a healthy digestion process and the production of caecotrophs, which is essential. Hay should be of a good quality that is fresh, dust free and sweet smelling. In the wild a rabbit will graze on all different types of grasses and hays, so a mixture should ideally be given, to include meadow hay. We have a selection of good quality hay https://www.hoppypets.co.uk/hay Hay is also important for a rabbits ever growing teeth, as chewing it helps to keep them worn down. Rabbits do also eat grass but it is extremely important to note that lawnmower clippings should never be fed to a rabbit. When mown, the grass very quickly starts to ferment which can upset their digestive system and make them ill. Top Tip: why not add some tasty dried flowers or forage to your rabbits hay to encourage them to eat hay and encourage their natural behaviours. Shop forage here https://www.hoppypets.co.uk/forage Leafy Greens - 10% of their diet Leafy greens, herbs and green vegetables tend to be high in fibre and low in sugar and so they are very good for digestion. However, some of these leafy greens and vegetables can cause gas. Gas in rabbits can lead to GI stasis, so things like spring greens, kale, broccoli and cabbage should be fed in moderation to avoid this. Kale and parsley can also be high in calcium, so should also be given in moderation. Although calcium is an important mineral for a rabbits diet, too much can cause bladder sludge and stones. Avoid giving iceberg or light coloured lettuce to your rabbit as they contain a lot of water, so can cause diarrhea and has very little nutritional value. Some healthy greens, vegetables and herbs that can be given to a rabbit are listed below. All fresh foods offered should be washed thoroughly and checked for mouldy or decaying parts before being fed. Please note that this list is not an exhaustive list. Dandelions Carrot tops Mint Basil Coriander Fennel Thyme Dill Parsley Kale Covelo Nero Ribwort Plantain Broccoli Cauliflower (including leaves) Pellets / Nuggets - 5% of their diet These are widely available with many different types to choose from. It is important to purchase the correct one according to age/life stage due to the different nutritional requirements. They should only be fed in small amounts, an egg cup is a good guideline. Nuggets contain all the necessary nutrients your rabbit will need, so these are advisable over the muesli style mix, which can cause selective feeding, meaning your rabbit will essentially pick out all of the bits he or she likes and leave other part which could hold essential nutrients your rabbit needs. Nuggets should always be fed along side hay and never as a substitute. At Hoppy Pets, we have a selection of nuggets here https://www.hoppypets.co.uk/rabbit-nuggets Treats - occasional It may seem reasonable that because a rabbit eats plenty of leafy greens and vegetables, that they should eat a lot of fruit as well. Rabbits do not naturally forage for fruit. They do enjoy fruit, but a small amount should only be given as a treat once or twice a week. This also applies to carrots, which are naturally very high in sugar. Cartoons and TV shows often lead us to believe that a rabbit should eat a lot of carrots. Carrots and fruits are very high in sugar and can cause obesity as well as teeth and stomach issues if overeaten. However, leafy green carrot tops are safe and can be eaten more regularly. As with vegetables, all fruit must be washed before being given and checked for any rotting areas. Some fruits that are safe (in moderation!) and may be enjoyed by a rabbit are listed here. Grapes Apple (no seeds) Banana (small slice) Pears Watermelon Strawberries Raspberries Blueberries Other treats, such as hay based treats may also be fed more frequently, but still in moderation. Visit https://www.hoppypets.co.uk/treats for some great, safe rabbit treats. Fresh clean water Rabbits should be given access to fresh clean water at all times. Water that has not been drunk the day before must be poured away and replaced. The most natural way for a rabbit to drink is in a bowl (think of wild rabbits and puddles!) The bowl should be heavy and sturdy, ideally made from ceramic to avoid it tipping over. Large, sturdy bowls can be found here and some even personalised! https://www.hoppypets.co.uk/bowls

Hoppy Pets is an online retailer of all things rabbit & guinea pig! Food, forage, enrichment, toys, treats & hay! Founded in 2022 by a duo who rescue and love to spoil their rabbits. Rabbit Rescue Wishlists As part of our ongoing support towards rescues, we now have wishlists for them. Simply pick the rescue you wish to gift to, choose your products, add to cart and checkout. Don Francis Founder & CEO Ashley Jones Tech Lead Tess Brown Office Manager Lisa Rose Product Manager Email info@mysite.com Call 123-456-7890 Follow

For any questions or queries related to our products, please use our contact form. Contact Hoppy Pets If you want to know more about us or our products, have a question or want to chat all things bunny, please use the contact form below. We can also provide rabbit information on welfare and are happy to answer any questions you have. We shall endeavour to provide a speedy response. Please let us know how we can help Name Email Subject Message Submit Thanks for submitting! hoppypets@mail.com info@hoppypets.co.uk Unit 3, Block A, Grateley Business Park, Cholderton Road, Grateley SP11 8SH

The Hop Box - a monthly forage feast for every bun! Can be purchased as a one time box as and when you wish or subscribe and save 5%! Why not add your pet's name below for your box to be addressed to them. The Hop Box Hoppy Bunnies every month! The Hop Box The Mega Hop Box What's inside? Each month with the Hop Box you will receive: - x2 100g bags of single forage - x1 100g bag of mixed forage - 50g treat bag (e.g. apple pieces, banana chips, dandelion root) - x1 190g Hay cookie bag - Willow Grove Designs themed artwork - Guaranteed bun satisfaction! The Hop Box Each month with the Mega Hop Box you will receive: - x2 300g bags of single forage - x1 300g bag of mixed forage - 150g treat bag (e.g. apple pieces, banana chips, dandelion root) - x1 380g Hay cookie bag - x1 Toy - Willow Grove Designs themed artwork - Guaranteed bun satisfaction! The Mega Hop Box How The Hop Box works Order your box Order your box for your bun and click subscribe. Cancel anytime. - 100% natural forage treats - Great mixture of natural forage & healthy treats - Suitable for most small animals We ship your box each month We ship all boxes the last week of the month. All orders placed before 20th will receive the current months box. Orders placed on or after 20th will be dispatched the following month. Hoppy bunnies everywhere! The best bit! Watch your bunnies enjoy their natural, healthy goodies! The Hop Box The Mega Hop Box